Remove the glowpin wiring nut, its connector is a single part. Tip:- fit the nut back onto the glowpin so it does not get lost.
Fuel filter in pump recess.
You may have to use a pointed implement dug into the side of the filter to remove it.
D5LC front with loom entry cover.
Case is held by screws.
D5LC case rear.
The small bung gives access to the air mixture adjustment.
Airtronic D5 case and ECU is different so early disassembly differs slightly from the D5LC. This should be straightforward, specific instructions are not given here but good quality photos would be welcomed for inclusion here please.
The D5 Troubleshooting & Repair manual has photos but they are Eberspacher copyright, hence the request. The small bung gives access to the air mixture adjustment. The large bung covers the glowpin on this model.
Bottom of the D5LC with its mounting seal.
The threads on the fixing studs can be damaged during removal so if not replacing them they can be left in place.
Bottom plate can be removed on these models.
Unscrew loom cover fixing bolt with a hex key.
Undo fixing screws and remove heating air outlet hood.
Remove case fixing screws.
Bottom plate removed.
Possibly not necessary to do so.
Heated air outlet hood screws are visible.
Thanks to George Green for providing the pictures of servicing his D5LC.
Servicing the Eberspacher D5L should be the same.
The Airtronic D5 uses the same body but as in the D2 the ECU is internal and it has a combined sensor.
Thus these pictures cover all three models Airtronic D5, D5LC and D5L.
If anyone is servicing a D5 please send us high quality pictures covering the earlier stages for completeness.
Read the disclaimer at the bottom of this page before starting any work.
Clicking on the images will display a larger better quality picture.
Checking the Fuel Metering Pump Filter.
Unscrew the 17mm nut on the fuel pump inlet.
Do not unscrew the nut at the end closest to the terminals.
D1LCC pump with filter removed.
Badly neglected filter with its replacement.
The condition of this filter is not normal, the filter can usually just be checked for debris and does not need to be changed.
The Fuel Metering Pump contains a fuel filter which should be checked and cleaned as part of the service.
The photographs are of an Eberspacher D1LCC pump, the Eberspacher Airtronic D5 pump is similar but has different connections.
You use any information and advice we give entirely at your own risk.
If you do not accept this do not use this site, go to an Eberspacher dealer.
We have tried to make it as accurate as we can but accept no liability for errors or problems caused by following our pages.
Some of the information is only suitable for people with a good aptitude for mechanical and electrical repairs.
Any DIY involves some risk of accidents and you must decide if you are capable and can do it safely before carrying out any work.
You should also ensure your DIY is done to a professional standard in order to avoid creating potential hazards and insurance invalidation. Boat installations must strictly comply with Marine regulations.
The two retaining latches have to be levered outwards to disengage before unplugging the loom connector.
The connector side retaining lugs are visible.
Remove the loom.
It may not be necessary to remove the heat plate but if required lever up the heat plate retaining clips with small screwdriver(s) or thin nosed pliers and remove the plate. The manuals do not show heat plates for D5LC or D5L models.
Clips are shown more clearly on later photos and often break.
The D5LCC and D5L have 2 separate sensors.
The Airtronic D5 uses a single combined sensor fitted in the left hand sensor position.
Only remove the overheat sensor if required as the retaining clips often break.
An alternative clip is starlock push on fastener.
One retaining post has previously broken. Possibly the 'If it wont shift use a bigger hammer' removal method. This is not good as when re-assembled the overheat sensor must make good reliable thermal contact. The sensor is a serious safety feature.
If needed the flame sensor retaining clip is easier to remove, lever with a screwdriver.
Unplug the overheat sensor connector.
The flame sensor removed.
Unplug the flame sensor connector.
The motor connector can be left plugged in.
Undo the fixing screws and remove the hood.
It may not be necessary to remove the bottom heat plate. The manuals do not show any plates for D5LC or D5L models, only on the D5 so possibly these were added on later D5LC production runs.
This heater is a 2003 to 2005 model.
D5LC heater underside.
D5LC side and top view.
Remove the glowpin, 19 mm or 3/4 AF spanner.
Inspect and clean. It can burn away close to the tip.
Also the wire may sag and short circuit to the next turn. The seal has a soft mastic type material, treat carefully.
D5 / D5LC / D5L / D1LCC...... have old type glowpins unlike the D2 / D4 which have the later ceramic glowpins. Failure of these older generation glowpin types are fairly common, usually failing open circuit.
Replacements are readily available.
Remove the bolts holding the shield frame.
A good view of the circuit board in situ.
Above is the fuel / air mixture control.
Leave this alone unless you have an exhaust analyser to adjust for the best burn.
The pin connections,right, look perfect but testing with a meter from the pin to the track, with just a little movement they go open circuit. When desoldered on the backside of the PCB the new solder would not stick to them without thorough cleaning.
The circuit board slides out if needed.
Some boards have corrosion.
Remove the heat exchanger bolts.
Separate the heat exchanger and blower units.
The location of the O ring is not shown precisely in the manual or in these photos so check its position.
Circuit board removed for photos, leave in situ if not required.
The circuit board can suffer from bad soldered joints to the 12 pin connector. One tested only took some 5 - 10 unplugs for the connections of the pins on the PCB plug to fail.
Plate bolts can be very tight, use a good quality screwdriver. Tip:- When reassembling use Copaslip on the bolts to make them easier to remove next time. One bolt has been replaced.
The heat exchanger semi circular plate and burner are not removable so chemical or industrial ultrasound cleaning may be required. Follow all chemical safety instructions.
There is a small hole beside the fuel pipe entry which I suspect is a ventilation hole to the glowpin screen.
Clean it thoroughly with a piece of wire.
The white central blob is the old felt washer.
Cover plate removed.
If the screen cannot be removed with pliers as on this D1LCC.
1 Bend the tab out of the way then drive a screwdriver behind.
2 The ring nearly broken, lever inwards to break it.
3 Prise the screen away from the sides until loose.
A clogged D1LCC Glowpin screen.
We were surprised it had kept going for so long, a D2 would have stopped long before this, the larger screen must help.
New screen lower right.
Pull out the glowpin screen by gripping the tab with pliers. Check the end of the fuel feed inlet pipe is clear. There is probably also a ventilation hole like on the D1LCC. The other end is shown on later photos inside the heat exchanger, clean it thoroughly with a piece of wire.
If the old screen is in good condition clean and retain as an emergency spare, dump ones like this!
Fit new screen during reassembly.
Service kits or individual parts available from dealers or ebay.
Some kits include a fuel filter, usually not needed.
Studs and repair rivets are optional.
The O ring is not shown in the photos, check fitting position when disassembling.
The D5 manual does not show an O ring fitted.
The plate gasket must always be replaced.
Keep the old glowpin as a spare or replace it only when it fails, it can be replaced without taking the heater apart.
D5LC ECU connections.
Reassembling the unit after cleaning is the reverse of the disassembly process with just a couple of points to note.
Replace the burner gasket even if it looks in good condition.
We know of several instances where a re-used gasket looked good but later failed, leaking fumes into the heated air supply. The only time we would consider re-using the gasket is if the heater is stripped down a second time within a week or so.
Some users recommend using Copaslip on bolts, it might help future servicing, especially for removing the heat exchanger plate.